TOOLS FOR THE TRADE
DAISUKE KAMIDE OF TEÄTORA
When Daisuke Kamide started his label TEÄTORA, he sought to redefine what we know as "workwear" by making clothes for the present-day desk jockey. Through an exacting vision and rigorous testing of the garments against one's own daily life, Kamide has managed to provide innovative clothing that can run parallel with the radical changes that are occurring with demands of the modern workplace.
A key feature of TEÄTORA's garments are the ability to become packable and deliver a complete wardrobe that is dynamic enough for indoor/outdoor transitioning, while also being sharply tailored and designed with function in mind. Visiting their headquarters in Tokyo, the designer divulges his practical and philosophical perceptions of his label and how TEÄTORA is unexpectedly retooling what we know as workwear today.
WHAT DREW YOU INITIALLY TO THE CONCEPT OF FUNCTIONAL, DYNAMIC CLOTHING?
Looking at my life, I mainly spend time sitting down for my work. My sitting hours are longer than my sleeping hours by far. At the same time when I am thinking about the sitting situation, I must say that the long hour flights must be the most stressful time as well.
All of my friends, who I have a lot of respect for, when I thought about them I realised that they are all working in the same situation for which I was concerned about. Thinking of how I can ease the stress for myself and my friends who face long hours sitting which can impede on their lives — these were issues I was taking into consideration and trying to find solutions for.
TEÄTORA IS ESSENTIALLY 'WORKWEAR" FOR A DIFFERENT SCENE. TELL US THE IMPORTANCE OF REINFORCEMENTS IN HIGH-WEAR AREAS.
You can find a large number of functional clothing in the market, however I have never seen in my experience the right functional tailoring which is still elegant for office workers. It has been never invented. Recently there are many types of functional clothing which would be labelled as “functional tailoring". These types of products have just added superficial functionalities, and it may be useful for travel on a private holiday with the family however you wouldn't wear that same suit to a business meeting or somewhere with a dress-code.
The function which TEÄTORA focuses on mainly is a “CLASS". Firstly, all TEÄTORA products are required to meet the standards of business-casual, or a meeting type of situation with a dress code. Secondly, the garments have to meet other functionalities which take into account the types of movement that come with office work and travelling, these are then considered and integrated into the product. The remarkable thing about TEÄTORA is that you do not need to change the clothing wherever you are or who you meet with because of the “CLASS" provided as the function on TEÄTORA products.
Concerning TEÄTORA's development, I make practical examinations from wearing the clothes all the time and I inspect each circumstance individually. Since TEÄTORA is my own independent company, I'm able to focus on specific developments without having to seek company approval like other brands normally require. This means that TEÄTORA is able to develop aggressively based on enormous data taken from practical examinations.
WHAT DREW YOU INITIALLY TO THE CONCEPT OF FUNCTIONAL, DYNAMIC CLOTHING?
Looking at my life, I mainly spend time sitting down for my work. My sitting hours are longer than my sleeping hours by far. At the same time when I am thinking about the sitting situation, I must say that the long hour flights must be the most stressful time as well.
All of my friends, who I have a lot of respect for, when I thought about them I realised that they are all working in the same situation for which I was concerned about. Thinking of how I can ease the stress for myself and my friends who face long hours sitting which can impede on their lives — these were issues I was taking into consideration and trying to find solutions for.
TEÄTORA IS ESSENTIALLY 'WORKWEAR" FOR A DIFFERENT SCENE. TELL US THE IMPORTANCE OF REINFORCEMENTS IN HIGH-WEAR AREAS.
You can find a large number of functional clothing in the market, however I have never seen in my experience the right functional tailoring which is still elegant for office workers. It has been never invented. Recently there are many types of functional clothing which would be labelled as “functional tailoring". These types of products have just added superficial functionalities, and it may be useful for travel on a private holiday with the family however you wouldn't wear that same suit to a business meeting or somewhere with a dress-code.
The function which TEÄTORA focuses on mainly is a “CLASS". Firstly, all TEÄTORA products are required to meet the standards of business-casual, or a meeting type of situation with a dress code. Secondly, the garments have to meet other functionalities which take into account the types of movement that come with office work and travelling, these are then considered and integrated into the product. The remarkable thing about TEÄTORA is that you do not need to change the clothing wherever you are or who you meet with because of the “CLASS" provided as the function on TEÄTORA products.
Concerning TEÄTORA's development, I make practical examinations from wearing the clothes all the time and I inspect each circumstance individually. Since TEÄTORA is my own independent company, I'm able to focus on specific developments without having to seek company approval like other brands normally require. This means that TEÄTORA is able to develop aggressively based on enormous data taken from practical examinations.
DISCUSS THE UNIQUE FEATURES BUILT IN TO EACH TEÄTORA PIECE, AND THEIR PURPOSES.
I do not go to the mountains for hill climbing, I do not play sports and I would not like to go somewhere where it is raining. However I have seen only functional wear that is specialised for the outdoors, rain wear or sports wear. These types of products are called functional clothing but nothing has been suitable to my lifestyle. Therefore I have demanded a suit which is comfortable to wear at any business occasion.
HOW DO YOU DEVELOP AND TEST THESE CONCEPTS AND DESIGNS? FURTHERMORE, HOW DO YOU TEST THE PRECISION OF YOUR PRODUCTS?
We have the brand concept “TEÄTORA enhances the creator's performance" - accordingly this means that TEÄTORA provides more specific segmented concepts on each series by having dedicated functionalities on each one that simulate several business situations. Each series has the individual strength of functionalities, with the following development processes: 1.) I experience a feeling of stress 2.) Inspect this stress and the process to relieve it 3.) Substantiate the experiment by myself.
I am creating products in a way that I see is “essential". The reason why I use the word “essential" is because in the fashion industry now, brands are making hundreds of products each season, however TEÄTORA does not follow this route. TEÄTORA's priorities of development are “investigation" and “verification". Therefore TEÄTORA releases 1 or 2 new styles per year, and sometimes there no new styles for a new season. After five years since establishing TEÄTORA, there are around 10 style variations (excluding the different length variations). Even after spending considerable time for the investigation and verification process and investing in the development cost, TEÄTORA does not release and approve new products with TEÄTORA's level of assurance, which means that all product must be absolute and overwhelming.
DISCUSS THE UNIQUE FEATURES BUILT IN TO EACH TEÄTORA PIECE, AND THEIR PURPOSES.
I do not go to the mountains for hill climbing, I do not play sports and I would not like to go somewhere where it is raining. However I have seen only functional wear that is specialised for the outdoors, rain wear or sports wear. These types of products are called functional clothing but nothing has been suitable to my lifestyle. Therefore I have demanded a suit which is comfortable to wear at any business occasion.
HOW DO YOU DEVELOP AND TEST THESE CONCEPTS AND DESIGNS? FURTHERMORE, HOW DO YOU TEST THE PRECISION OF YOUR PRODUCTS?
We have the brand concept “TEÄTORA enhances the creator's performance" - accordingly this means that TEÄTORA provides more specific segmented concepts on each series by having dedicated functionalities on each one that simulate several business situations. Each series has the individual strength of functionalities, with the following development processes: 1.) I experience a feeling of stress 2.) Inspect this stress and the process to relieve it 3.) Substantiate the experiment by myself.
I am creating products in a way that I see is “essential." The reason why I use the word “essential" is because in the fashion industry now, brands are making hundreds of products each season, however TEÄTORA does not follow this route. TEÄTORA's priorities of development are “investigation" and “verification". Therefore TEÄTORA releases 1 or 2 new styles per year, and sometimes there no new styles for a new season. After five years since establishing TEÄTORA, there are around 10 style variations (excluding the different length variations). Even after spending considerable time for the investigation and verification process and investing in the development cost, TEÄTORA does not release and approve new products with TEÄTORA's level of assurance, which means that all product must be absolute and overwhelming.
WHAT WAS THE PROCESS OF PERFECTING THE EASY ACCESS POCKETS? DO YOU MEAN THAT HOW KAMIDE CAME UP WITH THE IDEA FOR ITS ACCESS?
It's been quite a long time since trousers came into the world, yet the form and shape have remained the same as they are now. When we think about the function related to business wear, we absolutely cannot ignore the action of sitting. One-hundred percent in my case because my sitting hours are longer than my sleeping hours as I mentioned. Most trousers are made for standing posture, therefore no one needed to consider the sitting condition like we are living now - where more time is spent sitting than walking and standing. So first of all, we comprehensively investigate the action of sitting. Once we prioritise sitting as a primary role, we can picture completely different versions of the trousers. Based on the stereotypical trouser, the details are equipped on them which we do not need now, and the equipment which we have to have now is just not there. That is why my process is that I need to create a new mind-set rather than change prevailing mind-sets or add value on it.
When we assume to be sitting down, the hip pocket is no longer required and we also live in a time where we are never without our smartphones. We cannot sit down putting an iPhone inside the front pocket - it is such a huge metal obstacle to the act of sitting because the position of the front pocket is a main folding point of the body when in a seated position. The development concept of a security pocket on the Wallet Pants is having comfortability when we sit and having perfect access to our pockets and the contents inside.
EXPLAIN HOW THE GEAR CHART WORKS.
Having a facility without specific reason and proof is not a productive enough asset. The Gear Chart contains several narrative points however I do like to enforce it too much with descriptive text. Everyone can understand what is specialised intuitively by viewing the pictograms and name of the series - that is the purpose of the Gear Chart.
WHAT WAS THE PROCESS OF PERFECTING THE EASY ACCESS POCKETS? DO YOU MEAN THAT HOW KAMIDE CAME UP WITH THE IDEA FOR ITS ACCESS?
It's been quite a long time since trousers came into the world, yet the form and shape have remained the same as they are now. When we think about the function related to business wear, we absolutely cannot ignore the action of sitting. 100% in my case because my sitting hours are longer than my sleeping hours as I mentioned. Most trousers are made for standing posture, therefore no one needed to consider the sitting condition like we are living now - where more time is spent sitting than walking and standing. So first of all, we comprehensively investigate the action of sitting. Once we prioritise sitting as a primary role, we can picture completely different versions of the trousers. Based on the stereotypical trouser, the details are equipped on them which we do not need now, and the equipment which we have to have now is just not there. That is why my process is that I need to create a new mind-set rather than change prevailing mind-sets or add value on it.
When we assume to be sitting down, the hip pocket is no longer required and we also live in a time where we are never without our smartphones. We cannot sit down putting an iPhone inside the front pocket - it is such a huge metal obstacle to the act of sitting because the position of the front pocket is a main folding point of the body when in a seated position. The development concept of a security pocket on the Wallet Pants is having comfortability when we sit and having perfect access to our pockets and the contents inside.
EXPLAIN HOW THE GEAR CHART WORKS.
Having a facility without specific reason and proof is not a productive enough asset. The Gear Chart contains several narrative points however I do like to enforce it too much with descriptive text. Everyone can understand what is specialised intuitively by viewing the pictograms and name of the series - that is the purpose of the Gear Chart.
HOW DO YOU DEVELOP TEÄTORA'S TEXTILES?
Based on the target functions of TEÄTORA, providing a “class" is as important has providing comfort. If one is missing, TEÄTORA does not approve the product moving forward. The functions which I seek cannot be digitalised like rain wear, therefore I need to investigate and verify personally in real time, from there I can drive the exact equations for decisions we can approve for use.
For example, the PACKABLE HORIZON series which Norse Store is carrying for Spring/Summer 19 is developed based on the transference between urban life and a subtropical place. If this transference were a business trip, it would not be ideal to be suffering from the heat created from the suit, but at the same time you cannot be overly casual. It is also designed so that when you have time off, you have something easy wearing, comfortable and made even more ideal by the fact that the clothing is washable and easy to care for.
As described here, with further investigations we can find a many number of factors that need solutions. Consequently it is not reasonable to allocate resources for a one way equation or one way digitisation, it's also impossible to solve the factors using only one material and one product - it's a complex process. I can say that textiles used by TEÄTORA can be developed once our complex equations born out of investigation and verification and the technology we can access are combined.
DOES TEÄTORA CREATE A MORE DISCREET, UNDERSTATED WEARER?
I have several answers. At first, the meaning of functionality for me is to know and experience the function for myself. This means that we do not need to show to someone like “I am wearing functional clothing!". We do not need to tell about it to anyone and there is no necessity to be recognized for it.
I had a picture that I would like to create something to be helpful to myself and my peers when I decided to start TEÄTORA. Even if they're in whichever clothes - that is just who they are - I can respect them for what they are wearing, therefore I would not like to create a product that stands out too much that clashes with the personality of the wearer.
HOW DO YOU DEVELOP TEÄTORA'S TEXTILES?
Based on the target functions of TEÄTORA, providing a “class" is as important has providing comfort. If one is missing, TEÄTORA does not approve the product moving forward. The functions which I seek cannot be digitalised like rain wear, therefore I need to investigate and verify personally in real time, from there I can drive the exact equations for decisions we can approve for use.
For example, the PACKABLE HORIZON series which Norse Store is carrying for Spring/Summer 19 is developed based on the transference between urban life and a subtropical place. If this transference were a business trip, it would not be ideal to be suffering from the heat created from the suit, but at the same time you cannot be overly casual. It is also designed so that when you have time off, you have something easy wearing, comfortable and made even more ideal by the fact that the clothing is washable and easy to care for.
As described here, with further investigations we can find a many number of factors that need solutions. Consequently it is not reasonable to allocate resources for a one way equation or one way digitisation, it's also impossible to solve the factors using only one material and one product - it's a complex process. I can say that textiles used by TEÄTORA can be developed once our complex equations born out of investigation and verification and the technology we can access are combined.
DOES TEÄTORA CREATE A MORE DISCREET, UNDERSTATED WEARER?
I have several answers. At first, the meaning of functionality for me is to know and experience the function for myself. This means that we do not need to show to someone like “I am wearing functional clothing!". We do not need to tell about it to anyone and there is no necessity to be recognized for it.
I had a picture that I would like to create something to be helpful to myself and my peers when I decided to start TEÄTORA. Even if they're in whichever clothes - that is just who they are - I can respect them for what they are wearing, therefore I would not like to create a product that stands out too much that clashes with the personality of the wearer.
IS TEÄTORA A PRECURSOR TO THE HUMAN UNIFORM?
The development of the business attire category is truly worthwhile because this category has not been advanced for a long time after it was born. I'm at the half way point of my life now, and I do not have any adoration for fashion designers who I used to love and spontaneously I am now having great regard for Steve Jobs and Jonathan Ive. It's a natural turning point in my life. Creating overwhelming comfort in the active life of someone else became much more attractive to me than having the remarkable reputation of being a fashion designer. There is field more exciting than the category I am now facing, if I am able to comfort and enhance the working life of my friends and peers with the garments.
I can define the reasons why the business suit has not been advanced because that sort of attire derives from etiquette and courtesy. Even as time passed, these conventionalities have not been changed or modified drastically. Referencing the last 10 years, the infrastructure of our life has been transmuted completely because of wifi and new electronic devices like the smartphone which is the birth of the “all in device". This changes interacts with the working style, travelling style and of course with the things you carry every day. I am facing the development of the business wear with keen purposefulness.
WHAT ARE SOME CHALLENGES YOU'VE HAD TO FACE SINCE ESTABLISHING TEÄTORA?
For an independent brand like TEÄTORA, I could say that developing the original materials using only the highest technological fibers would be a gamble because of the huge cost of the development, from a business aspect. However TEÄTORA has a faith that our priority has to be the product quality which must be overwhelming - this is most important point of us. We are moving forward with the development of our faith, we face challenges all the time even after 6 years since we were established but as long as we have this faith, we can take on the future. When we develop the complete product, we feel an utmost accomplishment which surpass these difficulties and challenges.
WHAT IS MOST IMPORTANT TO THE TEÄTORA CUSTOMER?
I have never had a thought to produce a product which the customer would like to have. All TEÄTORA products are based on my experiences and stresses that I feel by myself. I discover the concepts, make designs and constructions, then investigate and verify. In general these processes are divided by teams but in the case of TEÄTORA I work on it by myself. TEÄTORA products are born from this method.
There are uncountable options in the field of design, especially fashion forward design, arty design etc… such as a creation. It could be the right option to assimilate the demands and approach wider targets. It would be the smart answer and one of the correct decisions however TEÄTORA does not follow that way. If I explain it drastically, then I'll say TEÄTORA is not for anyone else. It would be ultimately created by my egoism to seek my desire to be comfortable as much as I can and more than anyone. The reason why I am believing this process of the production is that the product which is created by someone's extreme desire strongly attracts me more than the product which is made out of commercial reasons.
WHAT IS MOST IMPORTANT TO YOU, THE DESIGNER?
The most important point to me is that I can be thrilled by myself and dynamically it is beneficial to someone else. For TEÄTORA, being absolutely and overwhelmingly utilitarian is important. I am avoiding being obsessed with the general numerical study and ordinary common knowledge of design without the experience which means that I do caution by myself to not proceed the process having only expectations. I repeat research and verification by myself until I discover the exact equation.
HOW WILL TEÄTORA EVOLVE IN THE FUTURE?
Firstly there are potentialities to develop further by being supported by collaborative companies who can contribute technologically. By investigating the possible materials with the latest technology, I am discovering the chances to move forward and I am thrilled to advance our purpose.
Secondly, TEÄTORA is now working on the development of footwear and bags. As for the bags, we cannot ignore the movement of the cash. Same as the birth of wifi and the smartphone, the environment and the stuff we carry with us, many things are changing with social movements and innovation. I am really thrilled to face the environment change and developing more TEÄTORA products.
